Colourful Colorado – Touring the Centennial State by hike, bike and rail

Touring the Centennial State by bike, hike & rail

By Lorie Steiner

For a solo traveller who doesn’t want to drive, a trip to explore the vast horizons of Colorado might seem somewhat daunting. But rest assured, the Centennial State is incredibly accommodating, welcoming, accessible and absolutely gorgeous! With an itinerary spanning six days and several modes of transportation, I made amazing discoveries, great new friendships and came back home with a hankering to return to this enchanting land that inspired John Denver’s Colorado Rocky Mountain High! 

Tip: Colorado boasts 300+ days of sunshine every year and given its high altitude, you’ll need to stay hydrated. Thankfully, there are bottle refill stations everywhere. 

Destination Denver 

The flight from Toronto’s Pearson (YYZ) to Denver International (DEN) takes just under four hours. One of the world’s busiest airports, DEN is surprisingly efficient, boasting magnificent views of the Front Range Rockies and an award-winning roof design that mimics the snow-capped mountains. From there, the RTD light rail line is an easy ride to Denver’s meticulously restored Union Station – an iconic beacon in the heart of the Mile High City and the touchpoint for my Colorado journey. 

Denver is at once vibrant and chilled, with a rockin’ music, arts, entertainment and sports scene, MICHELIN-starred eateries, dynamic craft beverage offerings, 4,000 acres of public parks, paved off-street hiking and biking trails, and launch points for urban paddling enthusiasts. A Mile High Culture Pass or Denver CityPASS gets you admission to a bevy of world-class attractions and allows you to explore many of Denver’s most popular attractions.  denver.org 

A short stroll from Union Station, Hotel Indigo aims to please. Modern and well-appointed, with eclectic nods to Denver’s illustrious past, the hotel’s friendly atmosphere and views epitomize a classic Colorado experience. (The view from my corner suite had mountain silhouettes in the background, juxtaposed with the upper row seating at Coors Field).

Dining Highlights 

Osteria Marco – lively and playful, Osteria Marco is fresh, authentic Italian at its best. Located on historic Larimer Square, the pizza, panini and rotisserie menu and 100+ wine selections make for a deliciously fun outing. (Try the hand-tossed Fig & Gorgonzola pizza… sweet and cheesy!)

Kachina Cantina is a free-spirited, modern Southwestern grill in Denver’s LoDo district. Enjoy the native-inspired space blended with the nostalgia of a vintage Airstream camper, in-house. (Don’t pass up the spicy good Chili-Braised Short Ribs!)

Rocky Mountain National Park – Higher, higher!

Rocky Mountain National Park encompasses 415 square miles of spectacular mountain environments. From pretty meadows to glistening lakes to towering mountain peaks and over 300 miles of hiking trails, it’s one of Colorado’s most visited treasures.

When you meet up with Denver’s Aspire Tours company at the flagpole in front of Union Station, be prepared for an awesome day trip to Rocky Mountain National Park – keeping company with a small group of fellow sightseers in a comfortable, upscale tour van. Narrated by a super knowledgeable guide (ask for Rico!), this 8-hour roundtrip journey climbs skyward, showcasing the rugged beauty of Colorado’s mountains, alpine passes, historic towns (including Estes Park and The Stanley Hotel – Stephen King’s inspiration to write The Shining), with hopefully a sighting of local wildlife. We spotted elk, bison, eagles and a particularly brave yellowbellied marmot hanging over a mountain outcropping, basking in the sun. Listening to Rocky Mountain High, as we drove back down to Denver was an emotional ‘high’ all its own. aspire-tours.com/tours/rocky-mountain-national-park-tour 

Riding the rails on Amtrak California Zephyr

All aboard! Depart from Union Station on the Amtrak California Zephyr (I chose to travel coach) and be whisked away to another time in Glenwood Springs. Trains are such a joyous, stress-free way to travel, and this was one smooth ride. Spoiled with stunning panoramic views from the observation car, five hours went by in a flash alongside the rollicking Colorado River, with kayakers and rafters galore, towering red rock mountainscapes and tunnels! 

For the return trip to Denver, I opted for a California Zephyr roomette. Private and comfy (like a luxe bunkie) for sleeping on long trips, you can stretch out and watch the colourful Colorado scenery go by from your own wide-window vantage point. A melt-in-your-mouth steak dinner, wine and conversation in the dining car was a lovely bonus. 

Ode to Glenwood Springs 

From the minute I stepped off the train at the Glenwood Springs station and looked up at the brilliant red rocks glowing proud in the setting sun, I was smitten. Just steps from the station, the Hotel Maxwell Anderson (formerly Hotel Denver) is a great place to stay – a classic American inn with a rich heritage, generous, western-themed rooms and beautiful views. Actually, there are no bad views in Glenwood Springs! 

After meeting up with the delightful Lisa Langer, Director of Tourism Glenwood Springs, for dinner on the patio at the Riviera Supper Club & Scratch Kitchen (highly recommend their saucy lasagna!), we had a serendipitous tour of historic Hotel Colorado and my first view of the incomparable Glenwood Hot Springs Resort. Indulging in the mineral baths by moonlight is heavenly.

Two busy rivers run through town, making it a haven for paddling and sport fishing. Cycling, even for beginners like me, is a treat along the streets and trails in Glenwood Springs. Sunlight Ski & Bike shop has a large selection of ebike rentals, the option of choice for my cycling adventure with Lisa and her Tourism colleague, Heidi Pankow. When you visit Glenwood Springs, say “hi” – they are the best local tour guides! 

By noon, we were ready for a scenic Gondola ride to the top of Iron Mountain, where Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park awaits with thrills for the whole family at 7,132 feet above sea level. Explore the Fairy Caves deep inside the mountain, ride the Cliffhanger Roller Coaster, soar high over the Colorado River on the Giant Canyon Swing… a day you’ll not forget! 

For inventive cuisine and cocktails, The Pullman (kitty corner to Hotel Maxwell Anderson) has some seriously tasty offerings. Think Pan Roasted Rocky Mountain Trout, Burrata Agnolotti pasta with heirloom tomato and parmesan broth, chicken fried beets, prefaced by ‘Spring Sang to Summer’ – a delectable concoction of grapefruit gin, ginger liqueur, rhubarb and bubbles. 

Glenwood Springs is a true western experience, brimming with vivid colour, charming shops, and surprises around every corner. Case in point: in the basement of Bullock’s Western Wear, you’ll find the Doc Holliday Museum – a memorabilia-filled cache of tributes to the dentist/gunslinger who joined the Earp brothers in Tombstone for the shootout at the OK Corral. Doc Holliday took up residence in Glenwood Springs in 1887, hoping for relief from tuberculosis at the famous hot springs. But it wasn’t to be… he died in town later that year. His own tombstone up in the hills is a popular tourist site. visitglenwood.com 

A fond farewell… for now

After a final restful night in Denver, it was time to say goodbye and head to Union Station for the RTD airport commute. But first, a stop at the Tattered Cover Book Store, where I purchased “The Crazy History of Colorado – Random Facts & Trivia Book” and a very cool T-shirt. Colorado is a special kind of wonderful, it makes your heart sing – and I barely touched the rock surface. 

They say that Colorado aspens shimmer gold in the fall… I’d say Colorado is a colourful destination all year round. Choose your season and imagine how much you could discover – with or without a car!  colorado.com 

*Many thanks to Julie Dufault and the Colorado Tourism team, Visit Denver, Lisa Langer and Heidi Pankow of Visit Glenwood and especially Sana Keller for making this Colorado dream come to life!